The shopping bags usually come in with him just a few minutes before the guests. It requires both courage and gall, qualities Ismail has in abundance."In the Tamarind's kitchen Mr Merchant takes his coat off and the chef, Atul Kochhar, fastens an apron round him to protect his expensive striped shirt. A lot of chopping and cutting has been done already, I see.Into a wide, hot pan he pours a ladleful of vegetable oil and almost at once throws in a finely chopped onion, four whole dried chillies, half a dozen cloves. In goes a tablespoon of grated ginger, a large tablespoon of black pepper (yes, a lot, he says, but before chillies were imported to India in the 16th century black pepper was the predominant spice in curries).He pushes in some skinned breast of chicken, stirring it into the flavoured oil. In goes a carton of plain yoghurt, and then he judges the right amount of water and bangs the lid on.

"It'll be ready in 15 minutes." He doesn't hang around.The prawns are dealt with just as quickly. A lot of oil goes into a frying pan, and immediately the king-size prawns. He adds a teaspoonful of whole black mustard seeds, a tablespoon of French mustard, crushed chopped garlic, grated ginger, a generous shake of chilli pepper, the juice of half a lemon, salt. In the time it takes to write this, the translucent prawns turn opaque He sprinkles chopped coriander leaf on top "It's ready," he announces. It's a wrap.We sat down to eat in the context of a feast of accompaniments prepared by Atul Kochhar, skewered kofta, minced meat balls, curried bhindi (ladies' fingers) and spicy potatoes, rice and breads - naan, paratha and roti.Mr Merchant immediately seeks out the dal curry, a thin gruel of spiced lentils "I am a dal junkie, I can't do without it,"he says. "Dal may appear to be a very simple food in Western terms, but in India it is the focus of the meal Dal it is to India what pasta is to Italy I can't live without dal.

If I were told I couldn't have it each day, I would feel deprived."His love of good food is infectious. We smack our lips over the mustard prawns, a tremendous combination of flavourings, and the succulent chicken in yoghurt. If he'd asked me to star in his next film, at that moment I wouldn't have been able to refuse But he didn't. No, he just hoped I'd be able to mention his new book.YOGHURT CHICKEN DAHI MURGHThis is meant to be spicy but the quality of pepper can be reduced according to taste.Serves 10-124 tablespoons vegetable oil2 medium onions, peeled and chopped4 dried whole red chillies12 whole cloves512lbs/2kgchicken drumsticks and thighs1 inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and grated12 pint/300ml plain yoghurt1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon ground black pepperHeat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan or saucepan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the onions, chillies and cloves and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions brown.Add the chicken and ginger to the onions and stir continually until the pieces of meat are seared on all sides.Mix the yoghurt with an equal quantity of water, and add to the pan with the salt and pepper. Cover and cook over a medium-low heat for one hour, stirring occasionally.Serve with rice and a green salad.MUSTARD PRAWNSARSON-WALLAH JHINGHAServes 42 tablespoons vegetable oil12 teaspoon caraway seeds12 teaspoon red pepper1lb/500g raw prawns, shelled, deveined, rinsed and dried112 tablespoons Dijon mustard2 tablespoons lemon juicesalt to tasteHeat the oil in a small skillet over a low heat. When hot, add the caraway seeds and red pepper and cook for three or four minutes.Add the prawns, mustard, lemon juice, and salt and stir well Cover the pan and cook for five to six minutes.

Stir the mixture well and serve with a saffron pilaf and a green salad.HAMIDA BEGUM'S STUFFED LIME PICKLEBHARE NIMBOO KA AACHARThis recipe will produce enough pickle to last a whole family for quite a long time, as you can imagine. It is so good there is always great demand for it from friends and family You can, of course, reduce the quantities proportionately. Preparation time: 212 hours, plus the time for cooling and bottling.Makes about 10 pints/6 litres200 limes114lbs/600g dried red chillies1 cup mustard seeds2oz/50g cumin seeds2oz/50g onion seeds1lb/500g garlic peeled1lb/500g coarse salt114 pints/800ml mustard oil12 fresh hot green chilliesSqueeze the juice from 100 of the limes into a large bowl; cover and reserve.Put the rest of the limes in a large stainless steel saucepan or preserving kettle, cover with plenty of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer until they are tender. Drain the limes, dry them with a kitchen towel, and put them aside.Take the red chillies and pound them fine with a mortar and pestle, or grind them in a food processor, or in batches in a blender.Put the mustard, cumin and onion seeds into a large frying pan over a low heat and dry-roast them for two or three minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. The seeds should begin to release their aroma.Take two-thirds of the seed mixture and pound it fine with a mortar and pestle, or grind it in a food processor or in batches in a blender.Combine the ground red chillies and the pounded or ground seed mixture with the remaining seed mixture.Pound the garlic cloves into a paste with a little water, then drain off the water. Mix the garlic with the chilli and seed mixture, adding the salt and a little of the lime juice to make a paste.Cut each boiled lime halfway down into four sections. Spread the spice paste well into the limes, put them in a large container and add the rest of the lime juice.Warm the oil until it begins to splutter, then pour it over the stuffed limes and whole green chillies.

When the mixture is cool enough, transfer it to glass or ceramic jars and cover them with airtight lids. Store in the refrigerator.CARROT HALVA WITH RAISINSGAJJAR KA HALVAServes 6a pinch of saffron4fl oz/100ml double cream8 tablespoons butter, melted112lbs/700g carrots, peeled and grated2 oz/50g sugar7oz/200g raisinsseeds from 4 black cardamom pods1oz/30g slivered almonds1 tablespoon rose waterthick cream (optional)Gently stir the saffron into two tablespoons of the cream Gradually mix in the rest of the cream The cream will take on the colour of the saffron. Do not beat the mixture.Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over a low heat Add the grated carrots and stir to coat well. Stir the sugar, raisins and cardamom seeds into the carrot mixture.Blend in the saffron and cream mixture and add the almonds. Sprinkle in the rose water and cook for 30 to 40 minutes over a low heat, stirring occasionally. The mixture will become a fairly dry, golden-brown mass.Serve with cream poured on top, if desired.!SSee page 28 for the story of Jefferson in Paris.