Afterwards Budget sweetie: Ch?au les Sablines 2002, Monbazillac (£6.99/50cl). Sweetie to die for: Ch?au La Vari? Les Melleresses 2000, Bonnezeaux (£25/50cl). Asda Asda's wine buying has been going through a period of retrenchment whose ultimate direction is unclear, but they're well represented in three solid names: Blason de Bourgogne, Australia's Brown Brothers (good whites especially), and the Gerard Bertrand wines from southern France. Reds A trio: Clos de los Siete 2004 (£9.99, limited availability), Argentina's star blend; La Crema Pinot Noir 2000 (£14.99), silky stuff from Carneros; and Manta Preta 2004 (£5.99), a food-friendly blend of indigenous varieties from Estremadura. For the adventurous: Felsner Gr? Veltliner Moosburgerin 2004 (£7.99), a creamy example of Austria's great white grape variety, and Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2004 (£9.99), a relatively restrained rendition of this fashionable variety despite its head-thumping 14.5 per cent alcohol. Whites For traditionalists: Sancerre Cuv?des Anges 2004 (£9.99) and a delicately oak-brushed Chablis 2004, William F?e (£11.99) For ecstasy: Pouilly-Fuiss?003, Domaine Thibert (£14.99). Waitrose Brut NV in a magnum (£30.99), 75 per cent black grapes, is a guaranteed show-stopper for a crowd.

Charles Heidsieck Brut R?rve, Mis en Cave 2001 (£24.99, also at Booths) represents luxury at a higher but eminently fair price. Waitrose There may be strong competition among supermarket wine departments, but Waitrose easily leads the field (as ever). Bubbles Waitrose Blanc de Noirs NV (£15.99) manages richness and sprightliness at the same time. Port fans: do not resist Taylors Quinta de Vargellas 1996 (£24 or £22 if you buy any two selected ports) This great port estate at its finest.

And one low-priced sweetie with lively acidity lifting intense sultana flavours: Almond Grove Noble Late Harvest Riesling 2003, from South Africa's Robertson Winery (£5.99 or £4.99 if you sensibly buy two). Afterwards To go with Christmas pud there is one marriage made in heaven: Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 2000 (on offer at £13.99/50cl), a reasonably priced representative of Hungary's greatest gift to the wine world. Reds Claret lovers should consider buying several bottles of the very forward St Paul de Dominique 2001, St Emilion (£11.99 or £9.99 if you buy two); this is the second wine of Ch?au Dominique, an excellent property, and drinking beautifully now. For Pinot-philes: Yering Station Pinot Noir 2003, Yarra Valley (£9.99), a silky, succulent example from one of Australia's best Pinot areas. For Chardonnay fans with a bit of spare dosh: Pouilly-Fuiss?Terroirs Rares' 2004, from the excellent Christophe Cordier.